Rock Climbing Self-Rescue
Learn to Avoid & Solve Common Problems for Safer Adventureswhat is self-rescue?
“Self-rescue” is a very specific phrase in the outdoor industry which encompasses the skillset needed to get out of sticky situations on your own, quickly and elegantly.
Here’s the deal: Climbing is inherently dangerous. It involves complex things within and outside of our control. Inevitably, you’re going to run into problems, either with your party, or with a neighboring party. Nobody wants to hang on a rope and wait for someone to come to their rescue. As climbers, we want to be able to solve our own problems, to be both safe and considerate.
“Self-Rescue” can be substituted with the terms “problem solving” or “critical thinking.” Knowing how to avoid and get yourself out of problematic situations could save your day, or even your life!
Course OUTCOMES
By the end of a self-rescue course, most students will:
Know how to make a “rescue kit” using equipment they’re already carrying
Feel more comfortable identifying common climbing risks and making proactive, informed decisions about mitigating them
Understand how to rescue and when to retreat if you, your partner, or another party needs help due to injury, illness, weariness, or other factors.
curriculum overview
Our self-rescue curriculum is divided into two courses to suit different climbing scenarios, each allowing ample time for skills practice to solidify your confidence:
Self-Rescue I is designed for climbers who spend a significant amount of their time in a base-managed setting (meaning belaying from the ground), where the climber could be top-roping or lead climbing.
Self-Rescue II expands on the skills from Self-Rescue I, applying them to a top-managed setting (meaning belaying from above), whether it be in single pitch or multipitch terrain.
The courses build on each other, but can also be taken independently to suit the climbing contexts in which you most commonly adventure.
Self-Rescue I
Mitigate Risk & Solve Problems Common in Base-Managed (Belaying from Below) ScenariosSelf-Rescue I introduces and develops fundamental self-rescue skills, from pro-active planning and risk mitigation to implementing rescues in ground-up scenarios. Practically, this course the most common “problem” scenarios one might encounter leading top-rope, base-managed trips at Devil’s Lake.
We start by building a “rescue kit” of common equipment and learning core knots/hitches, followed by fundamental rescue concepts. We then explore common problems and rescue scenarios in a base-managed setting, including:
building ground anchors
taking over a belay from another individual
ascending a rope to a climber
descending with another climber
There will be ample time to practice each technique and solve common scenarios, all while receiving in-the-moment instructor feedback. Mastering these core concepts empowers you to solve common rock climbing problems with confidence.
While most students will feel comfortable handling issues in base-managed climbing scenarios at the completion of this course, we recommend taking Self-Rescue II before heading into terrain that requires top-managed systems, like belaying a follower from above or multipitch climbing.
PREREQUISITES: This course is for climbers comfortable leading a self-guided climbing day in a single pitch top rope or lead climbing setting (sport or trad). Experience rappelling and a basic familiarity with anchoring concepts (sport or trad) is recommended.
Self-Rescue II
Mitigate Risk and Solve Common Problems in a Top-Managed (Belaying from Above) ScenariosSelf-Rescue II expands on the concepts from Self-Rescue I, building a larger toolkit to handle more complex rescue scenarios that occur in top-managed sites (belaying from above).
We start by reviewing core concepts like fundamental knots, equipment, trip-planning, and risk mitigation, expanding them to top-managed scenarios. We then consider common problems and rescue scenarios in the top-managed setting, including:
lowering a climber
hauling a climber
escaping the belay
descending to and with another climber
There will be ample time to practice each technique and solve more complex scenarios, all while receiving in-the-moment instructor feedback. Expanding your toolkit with these more complex concepts will empower you to think critically and solve myriad rock climbing problems in more varied terrain.
PREREQUISITES: This course is appropriate for climbers comfortable leading self-guided climbing days that require them to belay from above, whether in single or multipitch terrain. You should know basic self-rescue knots/hitches (overhand on a bight, clove hitch, friction hitches, mule knot) and be comfortable and competent with rappelling independently.
Logistics
Dig Into the DetailsWHEN
Each course meets for approximately 8 hours:
7:30 AM - 3:30 PM during March - September
8:00 AM - 4:00 PM during October - November
We meet at a designated trailhead within Devils Lake State Park. We’ll do introductions and equipment distribution, and then hike to the crag. After a 15-20 minute hike, we set up our basecamp and spend the rest of the day learning and practicing. At the end of the day, we wrap up and return to the parking lot as a group.
WH0
These courses are for climbers who have experience leading self-guided outdoor climbing days. Self-Rescue is an intermediate topic, so be sure to look at each course’s prerequisites before enrolling.
wE pROVIDE
Experienced, AMGA-certified climbing instructor(s)
Harness, shoes, helmet, if you don’t already have them
“Rescue Kit” of hard and soft goods needed to perform rescue skills (carabiners, belay device, double-length sling, prussik loop/Hollowblock), if you don’t already have them
Climbing and static lines to facilitate live, hands-on practice
bring your own
Food and water
Weather-appropriate clothing and close-toed footwear
Sunscreen, bugspray, and personal care supplies
Climbing equipment (if you have it)
Booking Options
Course Formats
We offer two course formats:
OPEN COURSE - Open to public enrollment, and offered on select dates three times per season. We arrange our open enrollment courses so you can team up Self-Rescue I and Self-Rescue II over one weekend. Open courses are more affordable, especially for solo folks, but have less flexibility on dates and customizing the curriculum. The upside is you get to meet some really great folks who might become future climbing partners! These courses have a minimum enrollment of three students. If the course doesn’t reach minimum enrollment 72 hours before the start, we will notify students and offer a transfer or full refund.
PRIVATE COURSE - Private instruction is for your group only, and can be scheduled on any date we have instructors available. Private courses allow for more flexibility on dates and custom-tailored curriculum, allowing the course to move at your pace and reach your specific goals. Pricing is based on group size This option is best for larger groups, students with specific requests, and those who can’t accommodate our open course schedule.
Open Courses
To join an open-enrollment course, select one or more dates from the drop down menu(s) below and click “enroll” to add the course(s) to your cart. To checkout, please click the Shopping Cart icon at the bottom right of the screen.
Private Courses
Pricing is based upon group size. Click the button below to request a date. We’ll email you to complete your trip reservation.
